MENSWEAR DAY London Fashion Week // Reviews

There’s a restless spirit at Number One Savile Row judging by the magpie tendencies of Gieves designer Frederik Willems. Rather than settle for a recognisably British look the collection had an international feel, with influences ranging from ultra-modern RAF Simons-style short duo-tone jackets to Fifties Havana in the form of elaborate printed silk shirts.


Eye-catching wine-coloured suits, with strong shoulders, were as close as Gieves & Hawkes got to classic tailoring. The standout pieces were a dandyish cream-coloured double-breasted over coat and a pair of low slung pleated leather trousers that were a major declaration that Gieves’ needn’t be constrained by its Savile Row origins.




http://www.gievesandhawkes.com

MENSWEAR DAY London Fashion Week // Reviews

TIM SOAR

The menswear designer showcased a collection that showed just how to execute signature luxury finishing, more  likely to been seen at the likes of Lanvin in Paris than on the runways of London's dedicated menswear day.

Tim Soar marked his confident design territory with a condensed yet perfectly concise 14 look collection entitled "Reassembly Of Past Things - Handsome", the starting point of which being a late Victorian dinner suit twisted  with Tim Soars personal 70s style, reminding us of what gentlemanly dressing used to be like way back when, and just how it should be in 2010. The collection was a well thought-out mix of boxy wool jackets - one of which displaying vintage-esq leather cuffs - over-wash blue denim becoming almost acid white, electric blue and salt and pepper knitwear, a secret sports jacket creeping into the show helping maintain the Tim Soar sports-lux DNA we have come to love.

Standout pieces included the sheer silk shirting, optioned in a crew-neck finish and with bib-front (a new must for AW10). No Tim Soar collection would be complete without a touch of leather seen lightly applied as applique to the knitwear. The colour palette was relatively sombre in black, camel, greys and vintage cream with the play on texture and fabric being the defining detail of Mr Soars continually impecaable collection.

http://www.soar-london.com

MENSWEAR DAY London Fashion Week // Reviews

Carolyn Massey

Inspired by ‘a body of military patterns sourced from an anonymous donor’ Massey takes military to the next level for AW10, including elbow patches and epaulettes on fine rib knits, military inspired jackets with round brass buttons and sturdy utility pockets.  Delicate hand-drawn prints were introduced for the first time, on shirts, whilst smudgy stripes in grey appeared on casual t-shirts.

It was the colour palette that was the surprising highlight, eschewing military khaki and the traditional red/navy/gold connotations the reference usually bring to mind, Massey instead opted for light putty shades, including pinks and nudes, which were tempered with shades of grey and matt black, creating an almost nostalgic, vintage feel to some of the pieces. Boxy leather tunics were worn over knits of the finest gauge, textured squares with a delicate sheen were the perfect complement to the luxury  fabric. The almost sparkly knit appeared again on an all in one grey jumpsuit, a garment certainly not designed for the faint-hearted. 

Layers were fastened with sharply shiny brooches, which recalled medals and badges, designed by Hannah Martin, whilst a collaboration with Tabio (the Japanese sock specialist) saw large fishnet socks worn under slim cropped trousers.  This attention to detail further distanced the collection from its grounding in military, but Massey’s skill allowed her to subtly recall traditional motifs, but in a fresh and contemporary way.

http://www.carolynmassey.com/

http://www.fashion156.com

MENSWEAR DAY London Fashion Week // Reviews

WINTLE

The show notes described a strong preppy influence on the Jsen Wintle’s collection, which was hard to square with his usual angular aesthetic, but as the show opened with odd (as in non-matching) jackets paired with trousers the collegiate influence was clear. This was preppy style expressed in a sophisticated way with long boxy jackets, rather than the usual brightly coloured polo shirts.

However, the hip-hugging slacks, which puddled around the ankles, were less successful than the jackets. Wintle’s use of colour, in the form of green suits, fawn double-breasted jackets and cream blazers, was adept and he made the shapes his own with unfamiliar lapel shapes, blazers cut as short as mess jackets and futuristic slash pockets cut along horizontal seams. Jsen truly took us back to the future.

http://www.wintle-man.com/

PETROU\MAN FW 2010-11 Collection

The seasonal return of PETROU/MAN appeared on our radar whilst in New York for Fashion Week - a collection designed by Nicholas Petrou and styled by Robbie Spencer (menswear editor at Dazed & Confused), was presented at Drive Studios. 

The collection, a more tonal and sophomore affair, ratained the technical tailored sports-lux feel we have come to love with PATROU, whilst improving on construction and keeping inline a scattering of signature prints - giving a new take to tie-dye and even hand dyed tartan.

Unusual fabrics, hand detailing in the embroidered shirts and the light use of fur made for a nomad inspired collection - we especially enjoyed the head pieces and customised footwear. This is a collection which seems to be pushed further in the right direction with each passing season - a talent is before us Gentry readers so sit up and take note.

http://www.petrouman.com

Alexander McQueen

Mr Gentry is not a place for tragic news stories, but today we all heard the tragic news that British fashion designer Alexander McQueen was found dead after taking his own life. 


It begs the question of how fragile we are, and how our industry is so demanding, exhilarating and yet so damming pressures of each season to put out a collection to the gaze of the world's media whilst putting yourself on the line too - we are surrounded by a need for immense change and pushed for drastic finales.


At only 40 years old Lee McQueen was a true original - an irreplaceable visionary creative that the world will be miss, and continue to wonder what would have come next.

The Out-Of-Towners

Believe it or not Gentry followers, there is a world of fashion retail to be unearthed outside our fair capitals walls, and here are a selected few: 


Bespoke Boutique, Norwich: Co- owned by friends Sean Ward and David Holland, Bespoke Boutique is a relative newcomer, having only launched in summer 2007. Bringing a fresh take on British and European style, they misx up rock ‘n’ roll inspired couture, modern tailoring and matching footwear, as well as accessories. Top-selling brands of the moment include Cheap Mondays and April 77, whilst a more niche audience is catered for with a limited edition Raf Simons collection for Fred Perry. 
18B Lower Goat Lane, Norwich, NR2 1EL. 01603 76 66 11. www.bespokeboutique.com




Hip, Leeds: With a stellar reputation in the city, Hip has quickly established itself as the clothing outlet of choice  for the Leeds creative set. Doing the tried and tested things well, you can expect Levi Vintage, Barbour and Engineered Garments from the US. 
9 & 14 Thorntons Arcade, Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS1 6LQ. 0113 242 4617. www.hipleeds.com




Oi Polloi, Manchester: Home to an extensive variety of must-have labels, including the ever popular full clothing range from APC and hand-dyed Edwin jeans, this has long been a favourite for clued up men in Manchester. For something a little different, you can pick up a pair of Superga super-classic canvas tennis shoes in a variety of colours.
70 Tib Street, Manchester, M4 1LG. 0161 831 7870; www.oipolloi.com

Aitor Throup x England Kit Sneak-Peak!

Not being a fan of the game they call football, i always find the fanfare surrounding a new kit astoundingly surprising.  However the time it gets interesting, for me, is when a certain Aitor Throup, graduate of the Royal college of art , gets involved.

Famed for his ability for reinterpreting the form of the human body and translating this into carefully engineered garments, he has consulted and worked with the likes of Levis, Stone Island, CP company and even high street wonder TopShop.

Aitor, appointed creative consultant to Umbro in 2008, designed the new look england kit last year entitled "Tailored for England" for which he worked with famed Islington tailor Charlie Allen. This time round, only Throup worked with Umbro to apply his relatively unique approach to contemporary tailoring, constructing the kit around a "unique 3D form, designed for player movement specific to the game of football" -  the result is not yet available to see but is apparently form-fitting and performance driven.

I'm not sure whether this kit will become a style icon in the circles of fashion, but i'm sure it will be an innovation masterpiece adored by football fans the world over.

The new away kit will go on-sale March 3rd 2010 and will be revealed shortly before then.

http://www.aitorthroup.com

http://www.umbro.com