Carolyn Massey
Inspired by ‘a body of military patterns sourced from an anonymous donor’ Massey takes military to the next level for AW10, including elbow patches and epaulettes on fine rib knits, military inspired jackets with round brass buttons and sturdy utility pockets. Delicate hand-drawn prints were introduced for the first time, on shirts, whilst smudgy stripes in grey appeared on casual t-shirts.
It was the colour palette that was the surprising highlight, eschewing military khaki and the traditional red/navy/gold connotations the reference usually bring to mind, Massey instead opted for light putty shades, including pinks and nudes, which were tempered with shades of grey and matt black, creating an almost nostalgic, vintage feel to some of the pieces. Boxy leather tunics were worn over knits of the finest gauge, textured squares with a delicate sheen were the perfect complement to the luxury fabric. The almost sparkly knit appeared again on an all in one grey jumpsuit, a garment certainly not designed for the faint-hearted.
Layers were fastened with sharply shiny brooches, which recalled medals and badges, designed by Hannah Martin, whilst a collaboration with Tabio (the Japanese sock specialist) saw large fishnet socks worn under slim cropped trousers. This attention to detail further distanced the collection from its grounding in military, but Massey’s skill allowed her to subtly recall traditional motifs, but in a fresh and contemporary way.
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