Friday, 26 February 2010
MENSWEAR DAY London Fashion Week // Reviews
There’s a restless spirit at Number One Savile Row judging by the magpie tendencies of Gieves designer Frederik Willems. Rather than settle for a recognisably British look the collection had an international feel, with influences ranging from ultra-modern RAF Simons-style short duo-tone jackets to Fifties Havana in the form of elaborate printed silk shirts.
Eye-catching wine-coloured suits, with strong shoulders, were as close as Gieves & Hawkes got to classic tailoring. The standout pieces were a dandyish cream-coloured double-breasted over coat and a pair of low slung pleated leather trousers that were a major declaration that Gieves’ needn’t be constrained by its Savile Row origins.